• In Batambang, Cambodia for a little less than 24 hours. Tomorrow will be the trip to Thailand. And the flying home the day after that!

    Batambang is cooler than anywhere else we’ve been. As context, I’ve worn the same outfit all day instead of having to change due to clothes being drenched in sweat. Also, Julie and I have had out air conditioning going full blast is every hotel we’ve been in, but I got back to the room today and it seemed a little too cool. We were met with a downpour as we made our way from lunch to our hotel, so that may have cooled things.

    Tuk-tuk tour of Batambang.
    We visited rice paper making place, bamboo steamed rice making place (yum), rice noodle making place. Drove by the fish paste making place. Took a ride on the bamboo train, which is something a tourist is obligated to do here. The bamboo train is a platform made of bamboo, with wheels from American tanks, and a motorcycle motor. We sat on the platform on a banana leaf mat and small cushions, and a driver raced us through the wilderness… untill we’d come across another car coming the other direction, at which time we’d disembark so our driver could disassemble our car to let the other go by. We had to do this a few times on the way out: the ultimate destination was a village of children trying to sell us bracelets and drinks.

    The ride back was quicker, as we only had to stop once to do the car-switch. On the way there it was three or four times.

    The bamboo train won’t last much longer. It is based on the disused tracks p from the old Cambodian train system, and this is going to be rebuilt starting within the next couple of years.

    Recipe for bamboo sticky rice: put sticky rice, coconut milk, beans in bamboo pipe. Cook in fire for an hour. Peel bamboo away. Eat delicious sticky rice. (There are a few details I missed as I was consuming a sample while our guide spoke.)


  • Yesterday and today was the Angkor Wat complex, including the Angkor Wat temple and a whole bunch of other old temples.

    My camera battery ran out just as we entered the big show – Angkor Wat so that made me a bit grumpy. But I pulled out my phone! So I’ve been able to dump a bunch up on to Facebook (ahead of getting home and going through all the photos from my camera)

    Visiting the temples was interesting. The are all old and in ruins. All very well maintained and organized for tourists, though. The best (worst?) part was climbing horribly steep steps to get to the top of the ruins. Most had wooden ones constructed over top of the ancient ones. The first temple we went to, however, did not. (I’ll find the name of the one later..). The original steps are shallow, and about 2 feet high? (Julie- confirm if you read this!) (EDIT: Julie says they were three feet high! And there were huge spiders chasing us!) (EDIT 2: Julie didn’t really say that: the stairs came up to about her knee, maybe a foot and a half). So I climbed up like a monkey, using my hands. And on the way down I cried a bit, and sat on each step. OK -I was able to step down after the first couple, but I had to scootch myself to the edge of the first. These stairs are very steep.

    There were some amazing story-telling carvings, which I like but didn’t have enough time to study thoroughly. They are the stories of the gods (Hindu and Buddhist) and I’m not familiar with any of them. But this was a good introduction.

    The pictures tell a better story than my words. I’ll post some at a later date. (Hopefully I will be able to remember which ruins is which. I saw quite a few.)


  • Today my tour group and I are on a road trip to Siem Riep. The first stop was at a market for bathroom break and I tried deep-fried spider and a squat toilet. Adventurous day.

    A twelve-year-old girl speaking perfect English tried to sell me bananas, but we aren’t supposed to buy things from the cute kids so I had to decline, even though she said the money would help her go to school. Who knows where the money would actually go.


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  • The night before last I took a tuk-tuk for the first time. Everyone else was going to pub and I didn’t want to so I got a ride back to the hotel. It’s pretty much just a taxi only it’s a roofed cart with a motorcycle attached to the front. $2US for 5 minutes up the road. It would have been a long and adventurous walk.


  • The Killing Fields
    I have yet to fully process. There is nothing I can say.

    The Genocide Museum
    This was a high school that was turned into a prison during the Khmer Rouge regime and then turned into a museum.

    I shook hands and took photos with 2 survivors. They are old now and sell books to tourists that tell their stories.


  • Today! was a bus ride from Saigon to Phenom Pehn. Not too exciting but there were tassels on the window shades in the bus, so not too bad. Maybe mildly exciting was the border crossing into Cambodia. Off the bus to show our passports to exit Vietnam, then on the bus for a short ride across area that is no country, and then off the bus again to enter Cambodia. They took my fingerprints on a scanner!

    In Phnom Penh our new tour group took a cyclo tour around the city and then dinner, and now I’m watching the X-Files movie on TV.


  • Mekong Delta was yesterday. This was the last day of the Vietnam part of the trip and the last day with our tour group. As such, we had Final Dinner last night, which included a game of “Secret Buddha” – Secret Santa only we’re in SE Asia. So. I stole and bargained for my present- but I don’t think anyone wanted it as much as me – a purple pouch with “Vietnam” stitched on. There was a lantern and other stuff for the taking too. I’ve written too much about this.

    The Mekong Delta tour was well organized. Our first stop on the river was the coconut candy making place, which I Enjoyed Very Much. Coconut candy is great. I also liked leaning more examples of how Vietnamese use up the whole coconut in the process (the shells used in the fire used the cook the candy, etc). I like crafty processes.

    The candy making place also included another rice paper making place, and a python that we were free to wear on our shoulders and take pictures. I felt comfortable not participating in this.

    After eating and buying coconut candy (because that happened, too) we had a ride in Vietnamese Mercedes’ (which is like a small pick-up truck with motorcycle). These took us to the tropical fruit place (many samples) and then to lunch (so much good food). Vietnamese-sharing style (many dishes served one at a time, one plate between 4 or 6 of us – we put portions of each into our own little bowl). This started with fishy salad rolls, where a whole fried fish was brought out in a stand, and the served picked off meat to add to the rolls. 2 each but I had 4 because Julie didn’t like hers. Then soup, and a chicken in sauce, and a fried rice, ending with honey tea from the hives located on site. Then: naps in hammocks if you wanted.

    Lunch and naps were followed by a ride in a row boat back to the main river. It was very peaceful (except for the far-off traffic noises, but just ignore that.)

    I didn’t nap in the hammocks for fear of falling into the mud or the pond but I did nap on the bus back to Saigon. Every day I am pooped!


  • Last night was night train to Saigon. That sentence sounds romantic, but we were deposited at the Saigon station at 6am. Tired day:
    Trip to cu chi tunnels
    War remnants museum
    Both are lessons about the Vietnam War – called the American Was here. ( maybe google “cu chi tunnels” if you want-I’m going to fall asleep before I explain or find a link)


  • Nha Trang

    I escaped Nha Trang today for another motorcycle ride into the countryside. I also escaped most of the tour group, too, as it was only three of us. We started with a ride up a winding road up into the mountains, stopping once to take pictures of a rice field and some cows. Our next stop was along a river and some falls. I waded in it up to my mid-calf – had a bit of a foot massage against the sand and rocks. The scene was surrounded by trees and full of the sound of insects/wildlife. We spent some time there and I spent some of that sitting on a rock and staring.

    Next was a ride *down* the mountain and a visit to villages who make (respectively) brass castings, rice paper (for salad rolls, or thick for crackers), and woven mats. We also stopped in at an old house that showed how Vietnamese people live/lived before they started moving to the cities.

    Lunch was noodles soup from a woman set up at the corner by the rice paper making place. Noodles and broth, with tofu and green stuff (cilantro). Yum. It is veggie because it was new moon, which is a day when Vietnamese Buddhists eat veggie. We also learned how to eat said noodles soup – using chopsticks to collect noodles onto spoon, add a little broth and deposit to mouth.


  • Tour group spent the day on a boat trip out of Nha Trang today. There was snorkeling and some time on an island beach. I was seasick/hungover (?) and so didn’t enjoy it as much as I might, but I did get a swim in off the back of the boat- beautiful water! I didn’t snorkel as I don’t like to see the creatures I’m swimming with. At the beach I sat under a grass umbrella and read so that was pretty much heaven to me.

    We visited a fishing village first and got to ride in a basket boat. I say ‘ride’ but I actually got to help paddle from the shore back out to the boat. (Julie has photographic evidence of this- and of basket boats). So fun.