• As much as I wanted the magical powers of the waters of the Hammam to *zap* me back to health, I still have a cold today. Boo.

    Dance class when sick is not a good idea and I do not recommend it. That being said I went to dance class today and it was a matter of suffering through. My eyes wanted to close the whole time, and my footwork was pretty shallow (not very stompy) because I didn’t feel like lifting my feet very high. BUT we’re learning a very pretty piece, and despite (or because of?) the weak footwork, I started to get some things that I wasn’t getting before.

    After class, Christina and I stopped for some Freshly Squeezed Orange Juice and it was pulpy heaven in a little cup. It’s so orange it looks fake, and I had to chew some of the pulp.

    Then reading time – I’m almost halfway through the thick book I brought. Then nap time.

    Then some feeling sorry for myself time for being sick on my holiday in Spain. Followed close by some appreciation for having found a nice apartment to stay in and I should be trying to get my money’s worth anyway. Also appreciation for having a lovely sunny room. Also, attempted appreciation for having the time to lie around and do nothing for a day, when really I want to be out exploring Jerez some more. It’s ok: I’ve explored quite a bit.

    Then a chat with Emma regarding life, etc.  And now Emma’s making her dinner and practicing flamenco singing.

    Note: you can’t escape flamenco in the south of Spain. It follows you everywhere. There’s music playing at restaurants, and random bouts of bulerias (party dance) when the bars close. I heard palmas (clapping) in the street the other day and found a group of boys just doing contra tiempo as they walked.


  • I’m sick today: sore throat and runny nose. But I like to think that I have cured it by attending the Arab bath here in Jerez. There are three pools: one is too hot, one is too cold, and one is juuuust right. I think I’ve shocked my system by doing the cold water bath followed by the hot water bath a few times. Maybe, maybe not. I also had a massage so I’m not too fussed about things in general right now. Very relaxed.

    As I write I wait for my roommates to finish changing. I could have gotten a key from one or the other of them, but that seemed complicated. It’s all chill right now.


  • I had a glass of wine today after class and then I had a nap.

    Before this, in the morning, I visited the big Jerez cathedral, which is a five minute walk from our apartment. I was the first visitor of the day – I wanted in as soon as I could so I would be sure to have enough time to look around and get home for lunch before my 1pm class.

    Walking around the huge church all alone was a little creepy, but also a nice way to experience it. Quiet, except for the recorded church music at a medium volume. After the main churchy part, with the seats in the centre and altars along the sides, there were rooms of treasures. I know they were treasures because there were signs with arrows labelled “treasures”. Treasures are shiney. There were also rooms with paintings and sculptures- church-themed art gallery. I like the sculptures: some of them have arms chopped off so I could see that they are made of wood. Also, they are old and pretty. My favorite, or at least on that caught my eye, was one of Mary (I think) with her head drapery flying out dramatically, like she’s caught in a breeze or God’s rapture or something.


  • Wine
    I’ve been having at least wine every day I’ve been here, if not two glasses, then one glass, and maybe a sherry instead (or, too). Yesterday was a sherry when I ran into Andrea in Plaza Plateros, immediately followed by the end of a bottle of tinto when I got home. Fun fun. But today in class I was a little dizzier than I should have been, so I’m taking the day off of wine and sherry today. I mean, we did learn a new turn, and had to repeat it, and I’m usually dizzy anyway, but.. let’s see if this helps? I’m not usually a glass-of-wine-a-day drinker so my body could be putting up a mild protest (i.e “WHAT THE EFF RED ALERT TOXIC”)

    It’s time to get ready to go to a show. Tonight is Mercedes Ruiz, who taught me last week.


  • A lovely and happy sleep last night. I was in bed before 10:30, which hasn’t happened since I got here with shows/dinners. I was tired, and it was nice to have a full night’s sleep. We meant to go out to somewhere with flamenco music and drinks, or at least out for dinner, but once all the roommates were back from diverse activities in the evening we all had bread with meat and some red wine and relaxed at home.

    New class starts today, but not until this afternoon, so I can lounge for this morning. I’m planning a big early lunch before I go: hopefully I remember too do this in time, and then remember too go to class.


  • Day Off
    We have a day off from dance today. A new session begins tomorrow. I’ll be learning tientos with Isobel Bayon. I’m excited but my feet are still sore.

    A day off might seem like a good day to rest but instead we went to market this morning to buy produce, where of course a flamenco mob occurred in the seafood section. We sort of stayed to watch but were also sort of trapped.

    Then of course we stopped in at a flamenco store, and then of course it was lunch time and so had to stop for some tapas and fino. And then back home to drop off groceries only to take off again to try and visit the alcazar (closed) and to find the hammam.

    It’s sunny and really cold today with the wind. I had to put on both cardigans and a hoodie along with my jacket and scarf. I don’t like the cold and wish for it to go away. Please. BUT the sun is shining in my window and warming my room AND we figured out how to make the heat com on in the apartment, so it’s cozy in here.

    🙂 Spain!

    P.S. Roommate update! Adam and Rachel and Baby have been replaced by Emma for this week. Emma arrived in Jerez like a miracle late last night and is now learning to navigate the twists and corners of this maze of a medieval city.


  • It is rainy this afternoon in Jerez. It patters against the window and if feels like home. I hope that unlike home, it stops soon.

    Last day of the first week of classes today. Lots of fun finishing the choreo. I got a certificate: 15 hours of class completed.


  • Thursday
    The only evidence I have that is indeed Thursday is the label written on my vitamin pills container, so I may be off.

    Thursday means a break to the regular routine. I had class as usual this morning, but the show at the theatre tonight is not included in the pass, so we get the evening off. We have a plan to eat dinner at the regular time of 8:30-9:00 pm. Regular in Spain, anyway. (If you are wondering, I will probably have to have a snack or small second lunch before this.)

    I enjoyed th show last night, and only partly because one of the dancers, Leonar Leal, has a short hair cut. There were a few parts where the dancers were doing flamenco with no shoes. My first thought was “Ya! No Shoes!;” my second thought was that I hope the dancers are careful because I’ve practiced flamenco with no shoes and my ankles started to hurt after a while. Most of the piece with no shoes was modern-ish movement, and not so much stomping, so they are probably fine. Hopefully you can see portions of the show by clicking this sentence.

    (I critiqued myself yesterday for being vague and general when writing about the shows I’ve seen already. I’ll do better. I could go back and fix yesterday’s entry and add links and names and things, but I probably won’t).

    Sunny and warm today. Me and Rachel and Baby went out for lunch and sat in the sun and I had to take my jacket off… And then drape my scarf over my head so my ears didn’t burn. Mmmm: little bits of salmon and bacon roasted on a stick with dates and olive oil. And vino tinto.

    Tomorrow is the last day of class for the first week of the festival. Hopefully the dance will be finished – we haven’t gotten there yet. I’m not worried because what we’ve done already is fun and I like to dance it. (Goal for class tomorrow: try to move fan around in choreography like a flamenco dancer and not like a robot-clown).

    Some notes about my class this week:
    1)My teacher this week, Mercedes Ruiz, is doing a show next week and I get to watch it.
    2)We do a good substantial warm-up every morning. The favorite exercise includes stretching our arms out to the side and holding them there. Then we flex our hands up, lower them down into fists and roll them back up again. Both hands go at the same time. Ten times repeated, then a little break where we shake out our wrists and groan, then ten time more.
    3) Some of my classmates are really good: they inadvertently help me learn footwork and timing. Thank you, Good Classmates.


  • Hanging Out with Baby
    One of my roomies this week is a baby. I can classify him as a roomie as I don’t have too much to do with him, as he is constantly in the care of either his mom or dad (Rachel and Adam). Other than the occasional squawk in the middle of the night he isn’t bad as far as roommates go. Of course, he has two well-trained caretakers cleaning up after him.

    Yesterday I learned that the noise that he makes during nap time* that sounds like flamenco singing indicates that he’s about to go to sleep. Good to know!

    *Coincidentally, his afternoon nap time very often coincides with my nap time.

    Flamenco Shows
    Our tuition for classes in the festival includes a pass for many of the nine-o’clock flamenco shows. These are almost nightly shows, and range from super traditional flamenco dance (polka-dotted costumes, shawls, and castanets) to super contemporary offerings (which still may include castanets, but play with the flamenco form just like contemporary ballet plays with traditional ballet). Both forms are good to watch to get a sense of what’s possible in flamenco. Of course, not everyone likes everything. I’ve seen five shows so far. Two were traditional, and three more modern. I like the modern works best, but traditional works are good education, and can be amazing. Several times, for both types, I have sat up in my seat, eyes wide wide I don’t miss anything, saying “wow.” Or “whoa.” Or, “ole,” which I should use more often, since I am in Spain.

    Tonight there will be a flamenco dancer with short hair (at least she had short hair the last time I checked). So I am keen to see her.


  • Fun Fact
    I have a wee blister on the top of my pinky toe from my new flamenco shoes. It doesn’t hurt but I have placed a small band aid upon it.

    Rachel and Adam found a craft beer place called Gorila not far from the apartment. It is where Adam send me to find free WiFi and to try the freshest beer ever. It tastes like beer to me, but not the grossest beer, which the beer drinkers have taken as a bit of a compliment. I am here again now but have chosen to have fino this time (sherry). I like it better than beer. Also, there are jasmine trees in front of me:

    image